Apricot and Oat Loaves

Since my last post the gentle grip of autumn has been steadily encroaching on the Pot Kiln and its garden. In a flurry of russet and deep purple (and with increasingly stained fingertips), I have been digging summer-sweetened beetroot, picking the remaining plums from our prolific tree, and gladly hoarding donated damsons. The beetroot, cubed and pickled in balsamic vinegar and red wine, serves as a vivid, earthy accompaniment to terrines and cold meats. The plums and damsons are both cooked down and pureed; the former to feature in a plum ripple ice cream for our irresistibly kitsch sundae, and the latter finding a more grown-up fate, as elegant cubes of firm jelly upon the cheeseboard.

There is change afoot not only in the weather but within the kitchen walls too, with the news that Dan, our talented sous chef, is leaving in a few short weeks. Dan has been my mentor in all things pastry-related; has tolerated my constant questioning and aided me translating my ideas onto the plate. He is moving to his Dad’s place, the Royal Oak at Eccinswell, where I know he will soar.

With the cooling climate and misty mornings, my annual porridge craving has returned, as is inevitable. There is something soothing about the aroma of hot oats, and with porridge on my mind I’ve decided to post this simple, homely loaf. The oats make for a spongy, slightly open crumb, and an almost creamy taste – perfect toasted and drenched in melting butter.

Apricot and Oat Loaves

Makes 4 loaves

100g jumbo oats

300g dried apricots in ½ cm dice

400ml boiling water

1kg strong white flour

1kg wholemeal flour

3 tbsp sea salt

3tbsp honey

2 tbsp fresh yeast (or 28g dried yeast)

1.4 ltr water at room temperature

Combine the oats and apricot pieces in a large bowl and pour over the boiling water. Leave for 15 minutes for the water to be absorbed and to cool down. Whisk in the honey, remaining water and then yeast, until evenly combined. Mix together the flours and salt, and add to the wet ingredients. Roughly combine into a sticky dough, cover with a cloth and leave for 10 minutes.

 Turn out onto a lightly oiled surface and knead for a minute or so with oiled hands until a ball is formed with a taut surface. It is a wet dough, so I find using a dough scraper helps greatly. Return to a clean bowl, cover and leave to prove in a warm place for 1 hour. Turn the dough out again, and divide into 4 pieces. One by one, knead each piece, bringing dough from the outside into the middle, turning the mass 45˚ each time you do this. Once in a ball and with the seam side facing you, flatten slightly and fold the top edge down into the centre, and the bottom edge up to meet it. Lightly roll then place in oiled loaf tins, with the seam at the bottom.

Leave to prove again for half an hour. Bake at 220˚c for 50 minutes. Remove from the tins and return to the oven for a further 5 minutes. The dough should sound hollow and be coloured all over. Leave to firm up for at least an hour before slicing.