Apple Soda Bread

This week I’ve been stocking up the store cupboard ready for the winter months. I’ve had vats of chestnut jam and rosehip syrup on the boil, both of which are now waiting in neatly-labelled kilner jars to be transformed into a component of some dessert. I love the idea of preserving ingredients and making them last all winter the way that people used to, before we started ignoring the seasons in the name of convenience. The intelligent and co-operative way we used to regard seasonality is apparent in the three apple trees clustered in the Pot Kiln garden. As different varieties they bear fruit in turn, one by one, meaning we have a constant yield from the beginning of August right through until November. When I first noticed this, I was struck at the good sense and forethought of those who created the garden from which I take my produce. The thought of these apples inspired my loaf this week.

Apple Soda Bread

I must confess I’m rather hesitant to send non-yeasted loaves out to the restaurant, for fear it looks lazy or as if I’ve overslept and run out of time. However, the crumbly density and almost creamy flavour of freshly made soda bread can make a pleasant change; and spread with cold, salty butter is enough to make me overcome my prejudice.

300g strong white flour

25g oat bran

1tsp sea salt

2 tsp baking powder

1 apple, grated

30g butter, melted

150ml whole milk

150ml plain fromage frais

extra oat bran for dusting

Butter a 2lb loaf tin and dust the sides and base with oat bran. Whisk together the milk and fromage frais. Add the grated apple and butter. Combine the dry ingredients in a large bowl. Using a spoon, stir in the wet mixture until well combined. Scrape into the loaf tin and gently flatten with a wet hand. Sprinkle more oat bran on the top. Bake for 20 minutes at 200◦c, cover with foil and bake for 30 minutes more at 180◦c. As when baking a cake, a skewer should come out clean when slid into the centre of the loaf. Leave for 5 minutes before removing from the tin. Cool on a wire rack and eat the same day.